the balti-scandic shuffle

So, there was a last-minute change of plans this weekend. I opted out of going to the island of Saaremaa, and instead I took a bus to Riga, the capital city of Latvia. The plan came up suddenly over lunch with Janet on Friday; I had been invited to come again to the children's center this week (which I really wanted to do) but doing so meant that the only other time left for side travel would be the weekend. As I didn't have any actual task to do on the Saaremaa trip and I really wanted to visit Latvia, we walked after lunch to a bus ticket office and switched up the plans. Randy Eplin was quite understanding and I'll be following up with him to see how their Bible school and related work went on the island. I heard there was a big storm.

By the way, lunch Friday was at a garlic-themed restaurant in Old Tallinn, and Janet and I both liked it. Including the garlic ice cream we shared for dessert :)

Anyway, I really have to admit that this weekend I was a full-on tourist. The trip to Latvia was awesome! I finally got to see some beautiful countryside along the 4-hour bus route. Riga is great, and pretty easy to get around, with the Daugava river running through, an old section dating back to midieval times on the eastern river shore, and a big city built up around all that (still with much historical architecture). What stood out to me most was a giant Centraltirgus (Central Market) right by the river/center of town where I spent hours just watching life take place that is very distinct from my own in the US. Four or five buildings resembling airplane hangers were full of vendors, each of a theme like butchers, fish & seafood, household stuff, baked and cooked things, with the streets all filled in between with hundreds of tables. I found the sight of fruit stands next to fur hat vendors striking. There is an endless section of coats, clothes, tools, fishing reels and traps, shoes, everything basically, lots of fur and leather. You can even get sized for a bra right there in the street; that's something else I opted out of. One entire street is all flowers being sold (very popular here, and I'm wondering if it's a way to cope with the weather). I got back quite late on Saturday night, Janet and Frank being kind enough to pick me up at the bus station. The time changed here that night, so luckily we all got an extra hour of sleep, although now the sun starts going down around 4:30 and it is completely dark by 5 pm.

On Sunday, Janet and I went by ferry (and here that means huge cruise boat) to Helsinki and back in the same day. Which was OK because the weather was super cold, rainy, and windy. We still had lots of fun and checked out the major landmarks like their Senate Square and a famous fountain scuplture, the Havis Amanda. We also ate at a French-countryside restaurant and hid from the cold for a while. Helsinki is a much more modern city, with architecture closer to something you may see in a larger US city. The boat ride back to Estonia was really fun because Janet and I snacked on duty-free junk food and got in some quality friend time. I loved it.

Today I had lunch with Janet at her favorite Indian restaurant here in Tallinn. Turns out Indian food is really popular here, and that's great news for me. Really cool place, with yummy stuff, and I tried plum juice for the first time (I give plum juice 3 out of 5 stars). Then I went back to the Lastekeskus (children's center) today, though only until 4 pm because it was a school holiday so most of the kids were not at the center but out with their school friends. They did ask if I could give a dance lesson this afternoon, and dance we did! Then the kids just played and after 4 I went to a shopping center (basically a mall) with one of the Estonian volunteers from the center. We explored there and got ice cream at a little stand that Janet says is acclaimed among the internationals here as the best ice cream in the region. And it was pretty good :)

A city street view in Riga, Latvia.

beating heart, dancing pumpkin

Hey guys! In case you are curious, this first picture
is of Janet and Frank's house where I am staying. It's a 2-family house, and they have the left side while the other is vacant right now.

In other news, yesterday was quite busy and my meeting at the UMC went well overall. I found that it is not unlike the UMC structure and activity level that we have at home. The superintendant I spoke with was knowledgeable about all the UMC's in Estonia (24 total), but quite honestly did not give me much detail on particular efforts that individual churches make to reach out to the community. It doesn't mean they don't and I know they do, I just don't think this guy's involved on that level (he's higher-level admin). So I might go back and contact the first person I met, the Canadian I mentioned earlier whom I've heard has more involvement in service and outreach.

I went to the Lastekeskus (children's center) that afternoon and just spent time with the kids (that is the main job; give them love and care in a safe environment). This time I spent hours dancing with the girls (& a few small boys), and they asked me to help them with the dance they've started choreographing themselves for fun. I reached back to my dance class days and we added on a section to their dance. I learned their first part then they learned mine added on. I had so much fun teaching them that! Beautiful girls and quick learners. But we are talking serious dancing here and now I have some great bruises (both knees) to complement the blister from raking ;) Now I know I'm alive. The kids also did a Bible study together (self-organized) and then I did my best to play cherades with them. Good times. Late afternoon the director poked her head in the door and just said, "You come back tomorrow, yes? The girls demanding this."

The Lastekeskus closes around 6 pm and from there I went to the new part of Tallinn (modern downtown) for a Wednesday night church-service of sorts with the International Community Church in their new little office. It was actually quite nice. It was a small group (as this is a new thing), cozy, casual, and relevant like "what's going on in your life, how can we be there for you, and how can we show love out in Tallinn?" I met Jana, a super nice art student at the university in town, and am glad to hear that she'll be on the trip to the island of Saaremaa this weekend (she's the one sitting in the photo to the left).

Today I got up early and visited the US Embassy where Janet and Frank work; that was pretty awesome. From there we went as part of a "US Embassy pumpkin-carving team" (I am not kidding) to be special guests at an annual pumpkin-carving contest at a local high school. Supposedly we were to create an example pumpkin, help judge, and give an award for best pumpkin. We did our best, and it was really fun actually! Here's our pumpkin (Lady Liberty, national bird the sparrow, and the "90" logo for Estonia's 90th anniversary of pre-WWII freedom).



Today was a great day at the Lastekeskus. I brought red and green grapes for the kids today just because I happened to think of it at the market on my walk there, and you would have thought I'd given them diamonds. I was surprised a bit at first, but even though it's in the stores I've come to realize that these kids don't get a lot of fresh fruit. Those of you who've seen the amount that I consume on a regular basis might understand how hard this would be for me to comprehend. Makes me really thankful. I spent a lot of time with one girl, named Marie, who had been having a rough day yesterday and had gone home early. I taught her the new part of their dance, and then we practiced it for some time (great workout). Of course there was playtime with other kids but I want to tell you that today we were putting up the board game Operation, and Marie said something that I didn't hear. I said "What?" and she said "Nothing." But I said "It's ok, what did you want to say?" and she looked down at the table and said "I love you!" Oh, man. I don't have to tell you what that can do to a person. When she looked back up I said "I love you, too!" and I think that's what she needed to hear. I meant it, too. I hugged her goodbye today as we walked out and she said "I love you" again, this time without hesitation, because I think this time she knew it would be returned. And that, my friends, makes today a success.

P.S. I'm going with Janet to Helsinki, Finland on Sunday! Pretty excited.

P.S.S. Mum and dad I LOVE you! You're awesome. Also, Frank is letting me borrow his GPS.

P.S.S.S. Laura you are super supreme really awesome supportive friend. I miss you a lot!

Janet, Frank, and Jane working on our Embassy pumpkin.

I am demonstrating excellent knife safety.

a rake in the right direction

Hey, guys! Today was pretty awesome. I called to confirm with the UMC superintendant this morning at 8:30 but he was not able to meet today after all, so we are planning to meet tomorrow morning instead. So then I worked on some homework (yes, I still have that) and went at 1 pm to the Children's Center Lighthouse ("Lastekeskus"). I rang the doorbell and two little boys answered, talking to each other and smiling at me, saying "Tere! Tere!" (hello in Estonian), then scrambling off out of sight when I stepped inside. I wasn't sure what to do then so I wandered down the hallway peeking into rooms as I went. I found a little kitchen where a woman was making lunch with several children, and when I said the name of the director she pointed me down the hall in the opposite direction. Eventually I found the director, another smiling face, and we sat down to learn about each other. She showed me around the house and introduced me to the lady from the kitchen and several kids along the way.

What I didn't tell you before was that the director (her name is Mall Tamm) had told me she already had 4 volunteers which was enough at present, so there may not be anything for me to help with but that I should come visit. I did, and after we talked today she told me it just so happens that one of the volunteers called in this morning with the flu, and the plan had been to do yardwork with the kids (one of only a few things I could've helped with given that I don't speak Estonian or Russian). So I jumped on it. First I joined the kids for lunch. Then I raked their whole yard and got rocks out of it, with some of the kids helping me. One little boy was raking leaves and picking up sticks out in the yard with rollerblades on his feet. Two little girls brought a plastic sled out and piled leaves on that to move them to the edge of the yard. They spoke some English, and we got to know each other. Later I spent time with other kids and one of the newest volunteers, there getting practice to become a social worker. It was a really neat experience, and it was not really about the leaves (although most trees are bare so they won't have to do much else this fall). It's about showing interest and demonstrating support, and about getting the chance to experience a project from the inside...to become a working part of something special just by being set to a simple task. When I came inside, Mall asked me if I'd had enough or if I'd like to come back tomorrow because her volunteer will not be well by then. So that's where I'm going after my meeting with the UMC.


When I was leaving, the girls asked me if I had time to see the dance they had been working on before I left, so I said of course and after their awesome production (which they started over twice to get it just right) three of them asked me for a hug. I was glad to tell them that I can come back tomorrow. These kids are beautiful, so loving and accepting, and they crave love so much. It is painful to hear the things Mall tells me about some of the things the children have been put through...abuse of all kinds, neglect, living on the streets, rejection at school, this kind of thing...but I'm so thankful that they have this safe place to go to and to experience being loved unconditionally. How would they ever understand Unconditional Love if they had never seen it in person? The Lastekeskus is a happy place and I'm thankful to be invited back. P.S. sorry but I can't take any photos with the children in them.

Other than that, I went out this evening with Janet and Frank to a Russian restaurant called Troika. We move on to our more in-depth catching up, and had a good dinner trying out this cuisine which was new to all of us. Should've taken a picture in there, but you know me. I hate playing the tourist.

Pic 1: The room where kids do homework and art projects.

Pic 2: All their shoes just inside the entrance.

setting up for the swing...

...I think. Or maybe this is the first swing already. It's hard to tell, but I know I'm moving forward as strategically as I know how, putting one foot in front of the other and admitting that only God knows where it all ends up. The uptight part of me works hard to be okay with that. But so far, so good :)I emailed the Children Center Lighthouse last week and got a reply yesterday from the contact person saying she was no longer with the organization, but she gave me the new contact email. I heard back from that person today and I have made plans to meet with her at the center tomorrow at 1300 (1 pm). I found myself on that street and went by there just to make sure I could find it tomorrow.


I visited the UMC (United Methodist Church) Tallinn also and was quite awkward in a few non-conversations to find someone who spoke English, but at last these forgiving people took me to an Estonian born in Canada who gave me the contact info for the "superintendant" whom he says I should come and meet tomorrow morning. They want to hear more about me and they may have some projects I can help with. Very friendly.


At 1600 (4 pm) I met up with Pastor Randy Eplin at the Olumpia hotel in the new part of Tallinn, and we went to his house for dinner with his wife, 2 of their 5 children, and a Texan missionary couple that have been working in Latvia at a crisis center for kids (though they are recently relocated and planning a stay in the US due to an illness in their family. they would appreciate your prayer). I learned that these people have experience and contacts from all over several parts of the world, and they have amazing hearts! They really do what God wants them to do, and have been amazed by the results. We had a great time, and shared stories about each of our first mission trips, and the first time our eyes were opened to the great big world out there and all the people living in it. The world is big, but not to big to reach out into it. It's never impossible, and it's never too late. Randy told us about a woman he met and heard speak about how, in her mid-sixties, she had retired and was wondering what to do next, and she was called into ministry. She ended up starting an orphanage out in some remote part of Africa and here she was, this little old granny (some years later) talking about how she'd get to her orphanage by flying into one city, four-wheeling some distance, then from there riding the motorcycle she took off the back of her four-wheeler with a submachine gun slung across her back "in case she ran into trouble". That's my kind of granny. Anyway, we were all encouraged by this meeting and exchanged contact info for staying in touch and potentially working together in the future. But I'll see Randy and Lori (his wife) again on Wednesday night.

I'll just leave you with this one photo from something I saw today while finding my way around that was inspiring. If you don't know of William Booth, look him up! The quote says, “While women weep, as they do now, I'll fight; while children go hungry, as they do now I'll fight; while men go to prison, in and out, in and out, as they do now, I'll fight; while there is a drunkard left, while there is a poor lost girl upon the streets, while there remains one dark soul without the light of God, I'll fight, I'll fight to the very end!” So yeah, enough said.


(first photo: just a pretty view from the street)


(second: the Children Center Lighthouse today)

5000 miles without a scratch.

Hi everybody! I have arrived in Estonia, safe and sound. I left Friday evening, flew to Chicago, waited a couple hours, flew across the Atlantic Ocean overnight and landed in Frankfurt, Germany at about 7:30 am our time, 1:30 pm their time. My old friend Robert and his mom met me at the airport b/c they live in Frankfurt now (Robert grew up there). We spent my 4-hour layover walking around downtown Frankfurt and catching a few glimpses of local life. I rode the train and got a bratwurst on baked bread from a street vendor.

Bratwurst with Robert.


Then it was off to Tallinn, Estonia, where I arrived at 9 pm their time, 2 pm NC time. Janet and Frank picked me up at the airport, and we went straight to their house. I got settled in, spent a few hours catching up with my old friend Janet, and then I showered and went to bed, where I slept soundly for 10 hours. That's the most I've slept in months!

The train station in Frankfurt.

Today I visited my first Estonian grocery store, (a chain here called Rimi) and then Frank, Janet and I walked all around "Old Town", or the old historic part of Tallinn where I checked out some major landmarks (like the Nevsky Cathedral and the former KGB headquarters) and got my bearings, along with some local currency. It was chilly and drizzling off and on all day, so I'm glad I packed warm clothes and Janet has an umbrella I can borrow. But Old Town is beautiful: winding cobblestone alleys, towers, spires, big block-shaped soviet style buildings, heavy wooden doors with ornate carvings. This is where the tourists love to go, but it is not really tourist season right now. From walking, using the trolly, and looking out over

the city, I learned that it is quite manageable of a size to navigate. This evening I had dinner at Janet and Frank's house, learned a few basic Estonian words, emailed with my local contacts, and used borrowed maps to figure out how to get to each of those church & nonprofit locations tomorrow. The picture above and to the right is of me coming down the stairs of a museum in Old Town here in Tallnn. Below is a picture of Frank walking with Gunner (the miniature schnauser) down an alley characteristic of the area. It is 11:55 PM Estionian time so goodnight!